Peru (April-May 2025)

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Day 1 

After working through the day, we took off in the evening just a simple flight to Lima, this would be the start of our journey in to the Andes.  We found a cheap hostel to stay in for our overnight layover in Lima, flight landed at ~9pm but our next flight out was not until noon the next day. Our driver/host drove like a maniac through town and I felt bad for the pedestrians he hit (j/k).

Day 2

Tried to sleep in but our host kept his phone alerts on loud, and he must be famous or important cause he was getting alerts all morning. He cooked us breakfast (ham, eggs, muffins, bread, and fruit) so he gets a pass I guess.

Our flight to Cusco, the base for this trip, was at noon and were in Cusco by two, coming down from altitude was a bit rocky but we made it safely. Our Cusco hotel sent a guy to pick us from the airport and drove us straight to the hotel in the heart of historic Cusco. After seeing our room we headed out for late lunch / dinner at Pachapapa for alpaca skewers, empanadas and beef short rib. Great start to the food scene.

After dinner we took a stroll up the hill (big mistake) to a great overview of the city. I call it a big mistake because Cusco is at 11,100' (3400m) and those stairs were rough and this setting a bad tone because it means the hikes will be extra rough.

Picture of Cusco from the overlook

We made it back to the hotel and decided to take a hit of the complementary oxygen to ease any potential issues, my blood oxygen level was down to 89 so it was probably a good idea for me.  After the oxygen I did feel better for a little while, but later in the night I actually came back down to the lobby for a second hit of oxygen since I was still feeling crappy. 

Your narrator huffing some oxygen

Day 3

Since we knew we still be recovering from the altitude, we decided to take it easy this morning. We ate breakfast around 830 and then went back to bed to get a few more hours of rest. 

Our tour for the day was the Cusco city tour, our host picked us up at our hotel where we then walked to the van to meet two other women from Pittsburgh. The tour started with 4 archeological sites (Sacsayhuaman (think of the pronunciation as Saxywoman), Q'enco Archaeological Complex, Puka Pukara Archaeological Complex, Tambomachay) before heading back into the city for tours of the museum and cathedral. 

Sacsayhuaman

Sacsayhuaman

Q'enco Archaeological Complex

Puka Pukara Archaeological Complex

Tambomachay

Dinner was at a Chinese fusion place called Kion, then it was back to the room as we have a 415am pick up. 

Day 4

We were looking to get a better specific time frame for when our guide would pick us up. Originally they said 4-415, and I don't know about you but I enjoy my sleep. They finally settled on 415, but no one showed up until 5 and it was our driver, not the guide. 

We picked up the other couple circled the block while the driver made calls to our guide and finally she pops up on a street corner. She gets in a profusely apologizes for mis-setting her alarm. Then we were on our way, 3 hours from Cusco. Once we left the city limits I was back to sleep. 

We got close to our breakfast spot and I was awoken by the zig zagging of the van. The crew quickly got out and started cooking breakfast (fruit, runny porridge, etc). Then it was 20 minutes further to the start of the hike to Rainbow Mountain (La Montaña de Colores). 

For some reason I had it in my head that there would only be a few other tour groups on this hike, but no it was a full on tourist spot with 20 other vans of people already on the trail. We started on our way as we do, but this time the starting elevation was 15,200ft (4633m) and we were going to 16,400ft (5000m). Walking around and slight inclines were easy enough but as soon as the climb got rough our heart and lungs moved into struggle mode. After an hour and a half slog we made it to the top of Rainbow Mountain. There was a long line to take a photo, our guide was kind enough to wait in line for us while we climbed to another peak for a better vantage (Pics were actually better from the top).

Trail to Rainbow Mountain

Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley in the background

From the summit we headed down and then over (and up) to the Red Valley for different views. 

Us at Rainbow Valley

Then it was back to the bus, after a long walk, and we had lunch at the same location where we had breakfast. 3 more hours in the bus and we were back in Cusco. 

We had to attend a meeting at 6pm for our Inca Trail hike, they told us about the hike, what to expect and how much weight we could bring. On the trail as a way to make jobs for locals, they are hired as porters and they will carry your stuff (extra clothes, toiletries, etc.) while you carry a jacket and water. 

After the briefing we had dinner at Jonas and headed home to figure how much our bags would weigh. 

Day 5

Today was the day that we would start the Inca Trail, pick up was at 430am, though we were warned it could be as early as 4. We walked from our hotel closer to the center of town where the bus was waiting and after everyone was gathered, we hit the road with all 15 of the hikers who would be doing the trail with us. 

We reached Kilometer 82 which is where the Inca Trail starts, our group along with a number of other groups were gathered at this location to have breakfast at 7 in the morning.  After our bags were weighed, we headed for the main entry gate of the Inca Trail and after showing passports we were on the trail at 8am.

The hiking crew

We stopped at a few ruins and the guide gave us the history of the ruins and the Incan people.

Views from up on the trail of Patallacta

Llactapata

From inside Llactapata

Lunch was at 2, beautiful spread.

More hiking more uphill... 

Last view before making it into camp

Finally made it to camp a little before 5pm. The porters had of course beat us to camp, set up camp (sleeping tents and food tents). 

After our camp "showers" we got into our tight ass sleeping bags (coffin/mummy type) for some night night. At about 10pm Rebe pops up and whispers, "my stomach hurts..." and this then puts me high alert. Maybe 30 mins later, in between cat naps I hear Rebe sit up very quickly and rustling against the tent, I quickly reached for the light and assist with Rebe opening the zipper and she preceded to leave her dinner just outside the tent. After a few more smaller sessions we were able to get some "sleep" but it definitely wasn't good sleep. 

Day 6

Day 2 of the Inca Trail is typically the worst day, this is when the trail goes directly up the mountain and through Dead Woman's Pass (named for a rock formation at the top and not the number of gringos that have died on the way to the top). 

Waterfall in the mini-rainforest

Porters embarrassing us as we took a break up the mountain

Wake was at 430am, breakfast was served and then we started to hike through a microclimate of a rainforest set along side of the mountain.  Upon clearing the rainforest, the trail opened up a little and we could then see the path way up the mountain.

View back to where we came from

The halfway point up the first climb, note in the notch at the top you'll see more porters reaching the top. 

We stopped midway for a break and took a look at what was left to cover (for the first part of the day) and what was left just felt unbelievable.  We did make it to the top and after clearing the pass, the fog started to roll in combined with some light rain.  I guess I should mention that the Inca Trail is not just a dirt path through the woods or across a mountain.  The Incans laid stones (read steps) on this path, so it wasn't just a walk up the hill it was the literally the live action version of the Stairmaster. 

View from the top

The path (stairs)

The crew at the top (rain had started)

"Dead Woman" at the pass

So the downhill was of course more steps, but now with the fog and rain it was just a test of patience.  Meanwhile the porters, who are carrying 20kilos+ (~50lbs) just bound past all the hikers like it's a normal day. 

At the bottom of the hill we had lunch in the valley, Rebe was still sick and didn't eat much.

Incan site (lower center), Lunch site (right center), Incan Trail going up diagonally from lunch spot

Incan site (Sayacmarca) before dark

Inside Sayacmarca

Part two of the day continued up more steep steps, after clearing the second pass more fog rolled in as we descended the pass we really couldn't see much. 

Before our campsite there was another Inca sight (Sayacmarca) that we made a quick visit to, looked like a labyrinth.

Leaving the Inca sight it was getting dark and we got into camp with using our headlamps.

Campsite

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Tent

Day 7

Day 3 of the hike, was less uphill and actually mostly down hill, but this was not a fun day.  The morning started of nicely with a stop at the top of a hill where we could still see the Inca sight from last night.  He gave us a breakdown of the sight and the surrounding areas and how it all tied together.  As he was talking the fog rolled in and the fog never left... So the day with the best views was fogged in so we spent most of the day admiring the flowers along the trail. 

Sayacmarca from afar

The trail

Another point of contention was the fact that this 3 day hike was originally supposed to be a 4 day hike. A few weeks/months ago there was a landslide that took out part of the Inca trail and campsite so there was a detour through the woods to get around the damaged trail.  Since this trail is not the actual Inca trail, it's not paved with stones or maintained it was a muddy mess.  Did I mention the fog had turned to rain?  Now not only was it raining it was muddy too.  This muddy section probably took 2 hours to slog through.

Puyupatamarca in the thick fog

Looking down from Intipata

Intipata

Us taking a break in the mud

We finally made it through the mud to our lunch site, we regrouped and readied up for our final push all the way to Machu Picchu.  Due to the mud we were a bit late and the gate to the Inca Trail had been closed 15 minutes early by the gate operator so we were essentially stranded on the wrong side of the trail. Luckily our tour guide knew where to find the operator so he could let us in.  At this point the rain had picked up and it was a full on downpour, so we donned our raingear.  The rain let up a little, so we took some of our rain gear off, which in hindsight was a mistake (actually two mistakes were made); 1) we should have just used our ponchos instead of our lightweight rain jackets 2) continuing to use the rain jackets left us soaked through because our rain jackets are just for light use).  

Regardless of the rain and mud we persevered all the way up the Monkey Steps, steps so steep that you basically need to crawl on all fours to make it safely to the top. These Monkey Steps have also earned the name "Gringo Killers."

The Monkey Steps

After the Monkey Steps, you reach the famous Sun Gate which when seen from Machu Picchu on the Summer Solstice the sun appears to rise over the top of the Sun Gate, hence the name.  From here is was a slippery rock trail down to Machu Picchu but sadly it was still foggy.

View of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate

Quick glimpse of Machu Picchu while the fog quickly lifted

The soggy crew at Machu Picchu

From Machu Picchu we caught a bus down to Aguas Calientes for our mud-ridden camp for the night, at dinner the chef made us a cake (still trying to figure out how he made a cake without an over).

Day 8

Today there would be no hiking, just a tour of Machu Picchu.  We awoke to beautiful weather very few clouds in the sky but you never know up in the mountains if the clouds are going to play nice. But for us they did.

We were there early enough to beat the crowds, 6am entry, which enabled us to take some photos of the site without the swarms of people who are typically touring by midday. 

Temple of the Condor (the big upright rocks are the wings)

After the tour we went down to Aguas Calientes for a final lunch with the hiking group, where we exchanged info and said our goodbyes.  Rebe and I were actually staying another day in Aguas Calientes to enjoy 2nd day tour of Machu Picchu and we had our tour operator book us a hotel in town for the extra night. Our tour operator dropped the ball again in that the hotel they booked for us was full and they had to find a new hotel for us (this was strike three of the mishaps associated with the tour operator).  The new hotel was nice but was right along the train line, which for some reason had a 1am train fly through town and woke us up.

Did some shower laundry in the room before booking a massage. Did I mention we finally got to take a real shower. 

Dinner was at Chullos.

Day 9

Another early wake up (455am) but this time it was of our own doing, we had booked an extra tour of Machu Picchu in addition to hike up Huayna Picchu.  Huayna Picchu is the mountain in all the pictures in the background of all the famous Machu Picchu images.  We grabbed breakfast at the buffet at our hotel, made a midday snack and headed out the door to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu. 

The park runs 20+ busses from the town of Aguas Calientes up to the site for tourists who don't hike the Inca Trail or want to hike up the mountain to the site. Busses are constant and start at 6am.  We caught the bus up, took a few more images of another great clear at at Machu Picchu. We didn't have a guide for the day, but we hung around a few tour groups to hear what the guides were saying and it was mostly the same as we heard the day before with our tour group. 

After touring the site once again, we headed to the back of Machu Picchu for our hike up Huayna Picchu (the big mountain in the background of all the images of Machu Picchu), once again this was another Incan made trail that lead to the top of the mountain and of course it was effectively all stairs to the top. 

Machu Picchu as seen from Huayna Picchu (zig zag is the bus road up the mountain)

Close up of Machu Picchu

With the mountain scaled, the day was done and we had to grab our luggage and head for the train station.  We had a 2 hour train ride over to Ollantaytambo where our tour operator would pick us up, or at least we thought they would.  Our guide on the previous day told us some one would know about us and just take us back to town. Well... this was strike 4 in that the group at the train station had no idea we were coming and looked at us like we were crazy. We had to hound them and chase them to let us on the bus, but finally they did and even got us a taxi to where we needed to go once we were back in Cusco. 

Once back in Cusco we tried to go to a specific restaurant our hiking buddy told us about, but we obviously Google Map'd it incorrectly.  We instead ate at nice small restaurant call Something Special, it felt good supporting one of smaller mom/pop joints in town.

Day 10

Continuing on with the touring, we booked one last half day tour to see a few more things in the Cusco region. This time it wasn't an 4am wake up, but a 8am pick up so we actually go to sleep in.  The tour started with a stop a local shop where the host showed us how alpaca fibers are made and dyed.   We also go to feed a couple of baby alpacas, so damn cute. 

Me feeding the baby

LOOK AT THAT FACE!

Next stop was at the Centro Arqueológico de Chinchero, a former Incan site with more terraces and a former Inca Palace that had been built over by the Spainards. 

Then over to the Moras Salt Mines, where this salty water comes out of the canyon wall and the locals trap it in pools for the water to evaporate so they can then harvest the salt. It wasn't quite dry season yet so they weren't producing yet but mainly prepping for the season. 

From there we headed to the Moray Inca site which has three unit terrace formations which are built in circles, a really cool and unique thing to see.

From there we headed back to town and actually had lunch at the restaurant we tried to visit last night.  I had the tasting menu and even got to try some guinea pig. Was a bit fatty for my taste, maybe it was just the cut. 

We had probably taken too much time at lunch and were not pressed for time in getting to the airport.  Traffic was a mess near the hotel and our taxi was having issues getting to us a in timely manner.   We tried to wait for the taxi that the hotel had booked for us but we just opted to grab a taxi who was passing by since we were in such a rush. 

We got to the airport with about 40 minutes before take off, and usually in small airports you can just zip through and not have any issues.  This time we were WRONG.  The line was horrendous and when we tried to get our bag tags the machine didn't find our reservation (mainly because we were using the wrong confirmation number).  We then hopped in the help line and get to the counter and talk to the counter person who then tell us it's too late and that the gate is closed. He then walks away, comes back and hands us our tickets and tell us to make the flight. 

Now it is time to run through the airport, cut everyone in the security line and sprint to the gate.  Gate agent gave us a crazy look but let us on the plane.  Still undefeated against missing flights, this was easily my number #1 in close calls for missing a flight. To make it more amazing our bag actually made the flight too, we picked it up in Lima and re-checked for our red-eye flight to Houston.  We landed at 5am the next morning and promptly drove home for a nap.