Mighty Five (Part 1) October 2020 (Bryce and Zion)
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| Not Bryce, this is Cedar Breaks National Monument |
Covidiot - adj. - 1) Any person who fails to wear a mask or wears a mask incorrectly, including those who wear a mask with their nose out. 2) Any person who gets closer than six feet to me without a mask.
Day 1
After a good day at work we caught our flight out of Houston to Las Vegas. In and out of Vegas was the final plan, there was a moment of thought of going into Vegas and out of Salt Lake City but flight costs just did not make sense and the amount of driving saved would be negligible.
Hobby Airport in Houston was not as packed as usual (thank goodness) so finding empty space away from the covidiots was easy, also on the plane everyone was a good citizen and wore their mask for the entire flight. Sadly as soon as they got off or others from other flights got off they took the mask off like it was all clear. I don’t have a lot of hope for conquering this virus by middle of next year but we’ll see.
From the airport it was on the road for 4 hours to our cabin in Tropic, Utah. No clue why they gave it that name, it’s FAR from tropic.
Day 2 - Bryce Canyon National Park (BCNP)
The morning was a lazy one but not a super late start, I think we were still on Houston time as we still woke up decently early. Found a breakfast stop/gas station in town (two doors down from then cabin) and had a “fluffy croissant” that was massive and some hash browns. This was a meal that we could have split, we weren’t going to be hungry for a while.
Bryce is actually a pretty small park, so small that you can really see all the sights in a day and even get in a good hike. We got through the gate around 9am I would say and our plan was to drive to the end of the park road and then make our way back. The recommended logic was that when driving into the park all the attractions are on the left and once you reach the end of the park and turn around all the attractions would then be on the right then making it easier to park. I really shouldn’t call them attractions, they were all viewpoints.
After skipping the Visitor’s Center, we went ahead and broke our plan by stopping at the Sunrise and Sunset viewpoints. This is the main area where all the classic photos of BCNP are taken. It was still early and I thought the sunlight might be still good shortly after sunrise so why not take advantage. The other logic was, this area gets really crowded so it might be tough later, depending on the time, to get a parking space.
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| The main amphitheater at Bryce |
After getting my photo fix, we drove the scenic drive road all the way to Rainbow Point and while there we hiked the Bristlecone Trail. I would imagine this section of the park does not get a lot of traffic as it is not quite as scenic as the front of the park but it's still worth a visit if you have time. If you don't, just stay up front and do a hike through the amphitheater.
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| Rainbow Point |
The scenic drive does not really have many trails off of it but it does have numerous viewpoints right off the road which we stopped at and since I am not smart enough to take pictures of all the signs before taking the pictures I am honestly not sure which ones are which as they all start to blend together at some point. I'm still not sure the previous pic is actually Rainbow Point.
We did stop at two more important view points, Bryce Point and Inspiration Point, these two overlook the main amphitheater and are probably the best view points in the park.
With all the viewing completed we decided to finally get up close and personal with the canyon with a hike down the Queen's Garden Trail and then looping back up the Navajo Trail via Wall Street. As you can imagine, hiking down in the hoodoos was extremely scenic and it was scenic all the way out. Just sucks that you have to hike back out of the canyon.
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| Door through the formation |
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| Lone trees on the trail |
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| The path out from Wall Street |
The stargazing started at 830, so to kill time we went to the cabin to shower and plan for tomorrow. We showed up for stargazing which was a bit of a let down as I thought they would have at least one telescope out for us to view celestial objects but nope. It was just a guy pointing at planets with green laser, it was pretty basic but it was still a great night to see the stars. But before the star gazing session I set up the camera and took 2 pics because I knew the center of the Milky Way was not out anymore at this time of year. The pic came out interesting, as a car was leaving the parking lot and lit up the trees I had in the frame. Rebe loved it immediately and I'll say the image has grown on me.
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| Bloody Trees? |
Day 3 Grand Staircase-Escalante (GSE) National Monument and Kodachrome State Park
I think I haven written about National Monuments before, these are federal lands that the president (alone without the consent of Congress) can set aside for preservation and protection. There are probably hundreds of these and quite a few in southern Utah, the largest of which is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
Grand Staircase-Escalante gets it’s name from the area that the monument is located, it’s a series of sedimentary layers that peak up around Bryce Canyon and then it slopes/steps have eroded down to the Grand Canyon.
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| Cross section was what the GSE looks like (Wikipedia) |
Our time today in GSE would be spent at Dry Fork Slot Canyon area, where there are 3 slot canyons that get a lot of attention. A slot canyon is a skinny canyon, so skinny that at points you can touch both sides of the canyon with both hands. This area gets pretty busy so it is best to get there early, and from our cabin it was 2 hours away and thus we left the at 7 to get there by 9. We were the 5th car in the parking lot and got ready and hit the trail. I said there were 3 slot canyons, first up was Peek-a-boo and just to get into this canyon you have to make this 15’ climb up into it.
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| Entrance to Peek-a-boo Canyon, 'the climb' |
We were actually the first people to get to the front of Peek-a-boo and another group was right behind us so as we were standing there debating if this was really the way in the second group just went gung-ho and went in. They made it look not too difficult so now it was our turn. I sent Rebe up first so I could coach her from the bottom, you know where to put your feet and cheerlead and such. This was probably a mistake because when she got to the top she couldn’t pull herself over the top ledge and ending up yelling at the first group for assistance. At that point I started climbing up behind her and the dad from the first group helped my Rebe, now we know I always have to go first. Inside the slot canyon was very interesting, it was very tight and you have to duck and crawl at some point and shimmy sideways in others.
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| Through the hole I go |
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| Just so you can see how tight it was |
After making it out of Peek-a-boo we were back on the surface for a while before walking into Spooky Slot Canyon. Spooky was more of the same sort of canyon, tight and sliding sideways in the canyon. The group that had helped Rebe was in front of us and we had not seen them in a while but we caught up to them in Spooky. Soon as we saw them, we KNEW what we had come up on was about to be bad. The canyon was filled with big boulders and the way down was through a gap in between. The park had installed a rope to assist with hikers to get through, and this… well it was an interesting way down for Rebe and I. Nothing too sketchy but it was nonetheless interesting.
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| Rope down |
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| Looking back at the rope |
After the rope, it wasn’t quite smooth sailing they canyon continued to get tighter and tighter. So tight that I had to take my backpack off and carry it in front of me as a I slid through the canyon. Even tighter that I had to take my wide brimmed hat off.
From Spooky we headed over to Dry Fork Slot Canyon to finish the loop, nothing too dramatic in this canyon but just a nice walk through and popped out the other side and walked back to the car.
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| The landscape at a section of GSE |
We headed back to Escalante (after a quick stop at Devil's Garden), the town, to grab lunch. The spot we selected, Nemo’s, had burgers and outdoor seating so it was perfect for avoiding covidiots and enjoying the nice fall Utah weather.
Next stop was the Kodachrome Basin State Park, this part was named by early photographers who were amazed by the color in the rocks in the area. Honestly, it looked like all the other surrounding areas but it did have a few interesting features. We did a short hike (Angel’s Palace) just to get a good view of the park and the surrounding area, supposedly you can see Bryce Canyon but not according to our maps…or maybe we were just looking in the wrong direction.
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| Kodachrome Basin State Park |
Also in the park is a giant structure called Chimney Rock, don’t know why they call it chimney rock but it’s freakin’ huge.
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| Chimney Rock and Rebe |
After all that we called it a day, went home and planned for tomorrow. Dinner was Raisin Bran and Oreos…maybe at the same time ;)
Day 4 Red Canyon and Bryce Canyon National Park
Nothing starts a day off right like waking up early and seeing the sunrise, yep that was the plan for day 4 (Saturday October 10th, so I remember what day it is). We got up, put on some warm clothes because it was 38F (2C) out and headed to Bryce Point, of course we weren’t the only people with sunrise ideas. Good thing was most of the people there were not photographers so they were busy watching the sun while the other 4-5 photographers up early were facing the other direction waiting for the canyon to light up. Even better was as soon as the sun cleared the horizon all the sunrise people jetted to do other actives and it was just the photogs left (this is the 2nd time we’ve seen this phenomenon happen, so if you want to see a good sunrise spot but want the crowd, just show up about 20 minutes after sunrise).
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| Sunrise at Bryce Point |
We then headed back to the cabin to eat breakfast and then back into town to grab our bicycles for the day. We were going to ride our rented electric bikes from Bryce Canyon City over to a section of the Dixie National Forest called Red Canyon. This 11 mile ride was nice and mostly downhill which…for going there was great but coming back it… well hills suck.
While we were down at Red Canyon we did a short 2.2 mile hike around the area, honestly this area should have been incorporated in the the BCNP. Honestly all of southern Utah should be a park, granted most of it is federally owned either by the National Park Service or the US Forestry Service.
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| Birdseye Trail at Red Canyon |
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| Start of the epic UT-12 scenic road |
The ride back, well it didn’t suck as much as one would have thought (besides the bike seat) the battery powered e-bike really came through on the hills and after we ‘assisted’ ourselves up the hills we coasted back to the bike shop to stop by our car to make ourselves a late lunch.
We then headed back into BCNP, still on our e-bikes, to view Fairyland Point and to catch a ranger talk at the rim of the canyon. She gave a great historical talk about the area and even spoke to us at the end about her time as a ranger (retirement ideas). We then hustled the e-bikes back to the bike shop because you do have to return things you rent at some point.
Decided to come back into BCNP to get a quick glance at the historic lodge that was built in the park in 1916 and while we were there we ordered some food to go. Took that meal over to Fairyland Point again to see how the sunlight was hitting the area, at first not great but then it seemed to get better.
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| Fairyland Viewpoint at sunset |
Day 5 Bryce Canyon National Park
Always a glutton for punishment, or maybe I just like torturing Rebe with crazy hikes but today is the day where we do a big hike. You know 5-6 miles, 1800 feet (~550m) worth of elevation gain or in a park on the side of a plateau that would mean hiking all the way down to the base of the canyon and then back up. The task would be the Peek-a-boo trail (yes another re-name that is used here just like in Grand Staircase) and after breakfast that’s what we did.
We got to the park around 8 and started at Bryce Point, the same location where we watched the sunrise the day before. We knew this hour would be fine as all the sunrise viewers would have left by then and in fact they had. And this meant getting parking was easy, now this parking lot and many others in the front of BCNP are filled pretty quickly. The best thing to do is to catch the shuttle, but if you’re an early riser with a lot of gear having a car is always nice. After getting parking we debated whether this was a good idea or maybe it was just Rebe giving me the sad eyes because she knew what was coming. And off we went down, down, down into the canyon. It was really a glorious hike, I really think the upper sections of this trail are some of the best viewpoints in the park.
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| View from hike down |
While on the trail you get to see all the formations up close and the amazing number of trees in the canyon. But this trail is a SLOG. No matter which way you take the route it’s a brutal loop but well worth the effort.
Here’s a few pics from the trail.
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| The peak in the center at the rim is where we started |
When finished with the trail we headed back over to the main amphitheater to catch a geology talk with one of the rangers. Of course the main parking lot was full and so we had to drive around for a second before finding a space near the lodge. We then walked over to catch the talk. The talk was short but it was a good refresher on the history of how and why the area looks the way it does.
We then went to a less visited area outside the main gate but still within the park called Mossy Cave. And it is just as it sounds, a mossy cave. But also in the area was a ditch built by early Mormon settlers to help get water from a nearby river to the town of Tropic, where we were also staying. Apparently since it was built in 1892 this ditch has only run dry one time and that was during the drought of 2002. Kudos to the people who built the 15 mile ditch to save their town. Did I mention it only took two years?
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| Mossy Cave |
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| THE DITCH |
Dinner was pizza, we did laundry (everything in this area is super dusty!) and then a ranger program about nocturnal animals within BCNP
Day 6 Cedar Breaks National Monument and Zion National Park
It is moving day, today is the day that a we make it over to our second national park. On the way up to Bryce we saw a sign about another National Monument and it was only an hour detour so why not go see what’s going on over there. The rangers at Bryce had mentioned the place a couple of times, but we had never heard of Cedar Breaks. We couldn’t check into our room at Zion until 4 so we had plenty of time to kill since we were only 2 hours away. Off to Cedar Breaks we went.
It was a lazy morning, microwavable breakfast sandwiches before we hit the road and within an hour we were there. Before we arrived at the visitor’s center we had found a couple of lookouts but we decided to go check out what the rangers were talking about. And while we were at the main viewing area we struck up a conversation with the ranger and convinced her to do a “ranger talk” about geology. The scenery at Cedar Breaks is very similar to Bryce Canyon, just slightly higher up in elevation (10k’ or 3050m Bryce Canyon is around 7600' or 2300m) and thus higher up on the plateau. The talk was more of same that we had heard at Bryce but it was still interesting to hear specifically about the area.
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| View from Spectre Point |
The ranger recommended a hike to Spectre Point, just a mile away along the ridge from the visitor’s center. A mile does not seem far but at 10k feet to someone who lives 3 feet above the sea it really is a struggle. Winded for no damn reason.
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| Spectre Point |
After Spectre we drove over to a few other viewpoints and then hiked a trail to Alpine Pond. It was a forest trail, not much else but it was a good change of scenery.
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| Yep, random sheep on the road to Zion and a lot of them |
Now it was time to head over to Zion, but while we were on the way we were of course listening to “Just Ahead.” If you didn’t see this mentioned in the previous post, it a voice over app that you can fire up on the road and hear about local things, geology, and history. I highly recommend this as it breaks the monotony of satellite radio or…Rebe’s playlist. Anyways, while we were driving we learned about this lake that was formed by this old lava flow that dammed the lake in AND THEN “Just Ahead” told us about an ICE CAVE! Surprisingly there was no road signs for this attraction, but sure enough after we took the turn there was a sign that said ICE CAVE straight ahead. There was only one other group at the ice cave and the cave was not icy but it was an underground hole that was pretty chilly. There was a rope to lower ourselves in but we thought better of it since we didn’t want to get stuck down there in the icy cave.
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| Ice Cave |
The rest of the ride to Zion was a quiet one, a couple of nice views of the surrounding mesas and then we entered the park. I secretly have a ranking system in my head of my favorite parks with Yosemite and Denali up at the top of my jaw dropping list but the quick ride we had into the east entrance of Zion (not even the main canyon) had me reconsidering whether to change my thoughts of which park deserves to be at the top of my list.
While on the east side, we still had some sunlight left in the day and there was a short trail that was apparently worthy of our time and it was only a mile so of course we had to check it out. The Canyon Overlook Trail is only a mile long and leaves directly from the road. It scrambles over some rocks and then opens out into the east canyon of Zion. Simply stunning. Forgot to mention that from the east side there is a tunnel that is 1.2 miles long, that was built in 1930 and it’s still the fifth longest tunnel in the US not in an urban setting (a Just Ahead fact, lol).
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| Canyon Overlook Trail |
The rest of the drive to our stay at Zion Lodge was pretty epic to, but by the time we actually got to our location it was pitch black out. We did see a grey fox at a bus stop and then another running between the deer in front of the lodge. We spent the rest of the night game planning for the rest of the week.
Day 7 Zion National Park
Today is the day, the day of days, where we would hike the famous Angel’s Landing. If you’ve heard of Zion, then you have probably heard about Angel’s Landing. It’s a notorious hike, up from the canyon floor through a side canyon, out on to Scout’s Landing and then up a knife-edged peninsula of red sandstone. You think I my description is a bit over the top, take a look.
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| That skinny ridge is the way to Angel's Landing |
Did I mention the ridge is lined with chains to assist climbers in getting to the top? It is truly ridiculous that they allow the average Joe to climb this nonsense, but hey only 10 people have died in the past 16 years. More have died on another trail in the park, which is astounding to me.
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| One of the few photos I took while hiking the ridge |
We actually started the hike in darkness from Zion Lodge in the park, we woke up and skipped breakfast and got out the door. Walked down the street in pure darkness, only our headlamps and the silver of moonlight lit our path. As the sun started to light up the canyon we were making our way up the first section and I took a couple of pics of the canyon in the morning light, all while Rebe caught her breathe.
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| Early morning Zion Canyon |
We continued to move up the trail, still ahead of the masses who couldn’t get into the park until 7am on the first shuttle. Zion is a special park in the NPS, the main canyon section is not open to passenger cars from March-November. The only way back into this section is by the park sponsored shuttle, even people staying at the lodge can’t drive past the lodge. But finally we crested the hill and made it to the famous chain section. Just viewing this nonsense made me laugh and traversing it made me laugh even harder. This is bonkers to do this early with a few people around, and I can’t even imagine what peak midday traffic on this ridge must feel like.
We made it to the top, made friends with a couple of other slightly insane hikers and ate our brunch and enjoy the view for a good while.
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| Us at the top |
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| Looking North toward the Narrows |
Then we started our way down, the way down definitely went by a lot faster than the hike up but it was slowed by the masses who had now made their way to the chains. After getting down safely we hiked up the West Rim Trail just for bit to catch a few more glimpses of the canyon before finally making our way back down to the canyon floor.
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| View again of the canyon, better lighting this time |
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| The ridge of Angel's Landing again |
The afternoon was pretty slow, we lounged and then went into the town of Springdale to get some supplies and gear for our hike the next day. We decided to do another easy hike over to the Emerald Pools, which were not emerald but more… algae colored? Apparently when it rains there’s a lot more water in the area but this week it’s been bone dry.
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| My happy face after finding the "emerald pool" |
Thai for dinner then night night.
Day 8 Zion National Park
In the Day 8 portion I mention gear, the gear that I was speaking of was drysuit pants and canyoneering shoes. Today the hike would be THE NARROWS. Zion Canyon was formed by the Virgin River just like the Colorado River formed the Grand Canyon though Zion Canyon is much younger and not nearly as deep. But the back of Zion Canyon, the northern most part, the canyon is very narrow 16 feet (~4m) at it’s smallest. Thus the name “Narrows.”
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| The Narrows |
Like everything in Zion the earlier you get started the less crowded it will be for you. After waking up a bit later than usual and eating breakfast, we caught the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava stop and headed down the riverwalk. There is a path/trail that runs along the river for a mile or so and then it ends, but that does not mean that you have to stop, you are free to walk into the river and walk as far as your heart desires. At first it was shallow (ankle deep) and then there was a path where you could walk along the river. Then there was a section where it was waist deep and it repeated this over and over and over.
While we were decked out like some professionals, you know boots and pants, there were plenty of people in there in all sorts of gear. Some had the boots but no pants, I spoke to one lady and it was her second time in the Narrows and she regretted not going for the pants this go round. Why you might ask, well the water temperature of the river is around 55F (13C) and for water that is pretty icy. Also remember this is a narrow canyon so the water really doesn’t get a chance to heat up from the sun. Other people were rocking their regular hiking books, I’m still trying to figure out how they are going to dry their shoes for tomorrow…I’m sure those shoes are going to be FUNKY. Then you had your flip flop/sandal crowd, this river is LOADED with large rocks waiting for you to bust a toe on, we almost went this route and thank goodness we opted for the boots. We also saw a few barefoot guys, don’t know what in the world they were thinking.
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| More Narrows |
After hiking in the river for 3 hours we had reached the end of “Wall Street”. “Wall Street” is a section of the river where the walls really close in and the canyon is deep. We sat and ate our homemade PBJ, because the only subway in town was closed for who knows what reason. On the way back to the beginning of the trail we noticed, as expected, that the river was becoming more crowded. Also a few stares as we exited out of the river, but you know what? Our legs weren’t cold and they weren’t wet either. Rebe is lucky because at our gear pickup the salesman warned us to be careful putting on the pants as the gaskets at the bottom tear really easy and putting them on Rebe’s did just that. Somehow her pants didn’t leak that much.
This was it for the day really, we headed into town to return our gear and grab dinner. For some reason Springdale, the town just outside the south entrance to Zion, has waaaaay too many Mexican restaurants. We got a burger from Wiptail and ate it at the Lodge while mule dear foraged on the grass as they every night.
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| The Watchman |
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| Daily Mule Deer at the lodge |
Day 9 Zion National Park
Day 9 was another long day in ZNP. We were up early and out the door by 630 and eating some breakfast burritos we had picked up the day before. The plan for the day was to head over the Kolob Terrace area of the park. There are a few trails over in this section of the park, but most of them get little attention. The one we were doing has a profile like this:
If you are familiar with Zion, you may have heard of The Subway. This is a section of canyon that has a unique profile in that the river had carved out circular or almost tubular wall sections thus the reason it is named as such. In order to hike to The Subway you have to submit for a permit with the park service and if you are lucky enough to score one, you then have the pleasure of hiking 9 miles to see this wonderful section of the park. There are actually 2 sections of ‘subway’ one is accessible via the route we are taking, the second is for climbers who know how to use ropes and such. And apparently that section of The Subway is much larger than the section we would be seeing.
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| Before the first big downhill section |
We got on the trail at about 730 and we were the first ones there, another group pulled in just as we were leaving. We told them that they would catch up and about halfway down the trail they did indeed catch us. The trail isn’t like most trails in the the park, this trail isn’t marked but rather there are multiple paths that just wondering along the river that is in the canyon. Not only does the path wonder along the river, it crosses it probably 30 or so times or just goes along the river too and the day before when we returned our dry pants, we actually kept the shoes for all the water crossings. Otherwise our hiking boots would be wrecked and if we wore the water shoes we own we would probably have a few broke toes from all the large rocks we would have kicked over the 9 miles (15km) we covered. There was also a lot of scrambling on this hike since its not actually a trail.
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| Beginning of the Subway |
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| THE SUBWAY |
The entrance to The Subway is very iconic and known, but in the back of the subway is a lesser known little room where a waterfall is rushing in. Now I had mentioned yesterday that the water in The Narrows was cold, well it’s not a surprise the water in The Subway is just as cold and for some reason Rebe and I thought it would be a good idea to hop in the back pools, all about 4-5 feet (1.5m) deep and take a peek at the waterfall in the back secret room. We discussed it for 10 mins before actually pulling the trigger and going to see the waterfall. It was probably the coldest water I had been in (besides the Colorado on the rafting trip) and I think my manly bits were trying to go back inside to find some warmth while we were in the water. Gladly on the hike back we dried out and the canyon was a sunny 85F (29C) as we were exiting.
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| The way to the secret waterfall and its COLD waters |
If you look at the trail elevation picture, you will see we had to hike up a great hill on the side of the canyon to get out. This was brutal after 8 miles maybe a bit too brutal honestly. So…was it worth it? Honestly, for 9 miles of trudging through the woods just to see it and paying for the permit… I dunno. I’d honestly recommend you see the rest of the park before venturing to The Subway. It was an epic day but damn we’re tired.
Nothing else happened after that hike, just ice cream, showers and food.
Day 10 Zion National Park
The last three days have been rough on the body so we decided to take it REALLY easy today, while Rebe slept in I got up around 8am to walk down the main road to see if I could get some good pics of the Three Patriarchs in some good morning light. Problem with being in a canyon is the light is going to show up with the sun of course so you have to wait until after 10am to get the “morning light.” So after 30 minutes of watch the sun slowly creep down the face of the canyon I walked the mile back to the lodge.
I got back and Rebe was eating breakfast out on the back balcony, so I joined her and we planned the day. She offered to drive me down to the photo spot while she prepped snacks for the day. I would take pics and then she would come pick me up and then we would go touring the rest of the park.
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| The Three Patriarchs |
We wanted to see the lesser traveled parts of Zion, this being the Kolob Terrace area (which we were in yesterday) and the Kolob Canyon area which is in the very north of the park. Each area of the park is very different from one another, the east being all wavy and white sandstone, the main canyon being…well a very distinct canyon (red sandstone), I’m not really sure how to describe the Kolob Terrance area but after seeing the view from Lava Point I guess terrace is a good description.
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| The view of Zion Canyon from Lava Point |
And the Kolob Canyon area was not a canyon in the typical sense like the main canyon but rather…hell I don’t know just look at the pics and figure it out yourself.
After Kolob we headed back to the main area of Zion, and we thought we would tour the east side of the park just for a change of pace since we didn’t have much to do. Also I was secretly plotting a pic of the Zion Grand Arch but it was too late in the evening and the sun was already too low in the sky. After getting stuck in the tunnel traffic we saw a group looking at something along the side of the road and it was 5 big horned sheep. We spent 30 or so minutes just watching them eat and jump around.
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| SHEEP! |
Took another pic of Checkerboard Mesa and then headed back to the room.
End PART 1 - LINK to Part 2
Another wonderful and little crazy adventure ,I would be afraid to be stuck on those narrow canyons ,beautiful pictures, can not wait for part 2 ,thank you , God bless ,love you too /Lilian
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